🔗 Share this article Each Chef Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots. Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London. An Surprise Accolade This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally surprised. “I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Charm of Modesty This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner. A Namesake Dish: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture. The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside. It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony. Other Than the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour. Surpassing the Stars Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure. A Creed of Warmth The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner. “I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.” This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”. The Journey of Perseverance In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son. Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication. “Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares. An Recognition for the People The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.